3. BABBER AT THE WHITE HORSE
Favourite local pub The White Horse, which sits on the north corner of the Rye, has had a couple of cool brands pop up in the kitchen over the past few years. But its first permanent residency has arrived with Babber, a charcoal-grill restaurant turning out posh kebabs. Enter through the main door and there are wood-panelled walls in a space that feels like a traditional boozer; but continue around and past the bar and find deep-green walls, a cluster of hanging pot plants you might need to duck under to avoid, and leather-banquette booths. On the menu from chef Joseph Ryan (formerly of Salon in Brixton Village, and one of London’s best rooftop bars) Frank’s, there’s delicious baba ghanoush with feta and sumac, hummus with aleppo peppers and the slightly surprising but very delicious onion bhajis with curried yogurt. Kebab-wise, there’s pork neck and ‘nduja, lamb kofte and chicken thigh with harissa mayo to choose from, but we like the aubergine doner with yogurt chilli, garlic and pickles.
Address: Babber at The White Horse, 20-22 Peckham Rye, Peckham, London SE15 4JR
Telephone: +44 20 7639 1459
Created by the trio behind much-loved Levan, this new arrival takes up the corner shop next door(formerly Brick House Bakery). Also taking its name from Seventies DJ Larry Levan, who wrote the blueprint for modern dance music, a daily menu is scribbled on a lightbox above the counter and interiors are overtly retro with bright orange tables and green Eames chairs. Designed to be slightly less refined than its older siblings, it’s as tempting for a long breakfast as a grab-and-go lunch. For supper, start with giant pickles and ‘nduja-soaked focaccia or potato latkes drizzled in a fermented chilli mayo. Mains are hearty – chicken liver and ‘nduja pappardelle or crispy pork escalope with a tangy coleslaw; pair with the tomato and watermelon salad with mint and a punch of chilli. With boiled eggs and soldiers served at breakfast, and huge melanzane filled focaccias at lunchtime, this little restaurant is laid-back, fun and just a little bit naughty.
Address: Larry’s, Unit 5, 12-16 Blenheim Grove, Peckham, London SE15 4QL
Telephone: +44 20 3795 7385